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Britta Cabanos

Influential Voices: Black Fashion Designers Who Paved The Way


Model wearing Designer Tracy Reese shear smocked shirt
Designer Tracy Reese shear smocked shirt

Celebrating Juneteenth: Influential Voices: Black Fashion Designers Who Paved The Way, a day of profound historical significance, celebrated on June 19th, marks the emancipation of enslaved African Americans in the United States. This day, beyond its historical importance, also holds a unique place in the fashion industry, as it's an opportunity to celebrate the remarkable contributions of African Americans to various fields, including fashion.


The fashion industry, known for its creativity and innovation, has been profoundly influenced by African American designers who have broken barriers, inspired trends, and paved the way for future generations. Let's take a moment to recognize just a few of these trailblazers and their impact on the fashion world.


 

Ann Lowe: The Trailblazing Couturier



Ann Lowe, a true pioneer, is often celebrated as the first African American to gain prominence as a fashion designer. Born in Alabama in 1898, Lowe's journey was not without its challenges. Despite facing racial discrimination, her talent and determination led her to design gowns for society's elite, including the wedding dress of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy in 1953. Her story is a testament to the power of creativity and resilience in adversity.


Lowe's legacy is a testament to the power of resilience and creativity in the face of adversity. Her journey inspires African American designers, demonstrating that talent and perseverance can transcend racial barriers. Her story is a beacon of hope, reminding us all of the strength and determination needed to succeed in the fashion industry.


book cover of Anne Lowes life "by her own design"
Anne Lowe Novel
 

Patrick Kelly: The Bold and Vibrant Innovator


COLLAGE OF DESIGNS BY DESIGNER PATRICK KELLY
Collaged photographs and archives from the Patrick Kelly Collections in the Photographs and Prints, and the Manuscripts, Archives, and Rare Books Divisions.

Patrick Kelly, a Mississippi-born designer, made a significant impact in the 1980s with his bold and colorful designs. Moving to Paris in the early 1980s, Kelly became the first American designer admitted to the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, the governing body of the French ready-to-wear industry.

Kelly's work was characterized by its vibrant use of color, playful patterns, and a deep appreciation for African American culture. His designs often incorporated oversized buttons and heart motifs, which became his signature style. Kelly's influence continues to resonate, encouraging designers to embrace and infuse their cultural heritage into their work.


Patrick Kelly: The American in Paris



 

Zelda Wynn Valdes: The Creator of Iconic Glamour


women wearing Zelda Wynn Valdez iconic Playboy Bunny Design
Zelda Wynn Valdez Playboy Bunny Design

Zelda Wynn Valdes pioneered creating glamorous, form-fitting gowns that celebrated the female silhouette. Born in Pennsylvania in 1905, Valdes opened her boutique, "Chez Zelda," in 1948 in Manhattan, becoming one of the first African American fashion designers to own a shop on Broadway.


Valdes designed for prominent figures such as Ella Fitzgerald, Josephine Baker, and Mae West. She is also credited with creating the original Playboy Bunny costume, an iconic piece that has left a lasting mark on fashion. Valdes' work inspires designers to embrace elegance and sophistication in their creations.


 

Tracy Reese: The Modern-Day Trailblazer

Fashion Designer Tracy Reese, Image from Hopeforflowers.com
Fashion Designer Tracy Reese, Image from Hopeforflowers.com

Tracy Reese is a contemporary designer who has made a significant mark on the fashion industry. Known for her colorful prints and feminine designs, Reese has dressed influential women such as Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker. Her commitment to sustainability and ethical fashion aligns with the growing movement towards responsible fashion practices.


Reese's success and dedication to supporting other designers of color through initiatives like the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) highlight the importance of mentorship and community in the fashion industry. Her work exemplifies how contemporary designers can carry forward the legacy of past pioneers while addressing modern challenges.


Tracy Reese working on a floral painting
Tracy Reese working on a painted print

Reese's most recent endeavors include launching Hope For Flowers Boutique in Detroit. Read more here: How Detroit native and proud Cass Tech alumna Tracy Reese makes sustainable clothing in the city

Reese turned her childhood love of sewing into Hope for Flowers, a fashion boutique in Detroit offering locally-made clothing.

Tracy Reese Sustainability website image model in floral pink flowy dress
Tracy Reese Sustainability Campaign

Influencing the Next Generation

African American designers' contributions have not only enriched the fashion industry but also reshaped its landscape. By breaking barriers and pushing creative boundaries, these trailblazers have opened doors for more diverse representation in fashion. Their impact is a source of pride for all of us, highlighting the importance of diversity and inclusion in our industry.


Book cover Dazzling Zelda, In this lustrous nonfiction picture book biography, meet Black fashion icon and design pioneer Zelda Wynn Valdes, whose dresses, gowns, and costumes helped make people shine.
In this lustrous nonfiction picture book biography, meet Black fashion icon and design pioneer Zelda Wynn Valdes, whose dresses, gowns, and costumes helped make people shine.

A fun read to inspire young ones to sew!

Check out this book Dazzling Zelda


As we celebrate Juneteenth, let's honor these influential figures and recognize their enduring impact. Their stories serve as a reminder that diversity and inclusion are vital to the continued innovation and vibrancy of the fashion industry.


At the heart of Juneteenth lies the spirit of freedom, resilience, and creativity. As fashion professionals, let's draw inspiration from these pioneers, continue to support and uplift each other, and strive to create a more inclusive and equitable industry for all.


Graphic with quote "not everutjomg that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced". James Baldwin
Juneteenth Celebrating Freedom

Britta Cabanos Fashion Industry Professional, Educator, & Advocate for Ethical & Conscious Fashion

We invite you to share your thoughts and join the conversation about the influential African American designers who have shaped the fashion industry. Your voice is important in celebrating their legacies and fostering a culture of diversity and inclusion in our work. Together, we can continue their legacy and make our industry more equitable for all.


Send us a note anytime: design@insidefashiondesign.net


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